Discover Japan’s Love Hotels: Inside the Wild, Moby Dick-Inspired Architectural Wonders!

Are you turned on by whales or intrigued by UFOs? Perhaps you fantasize about a romantic encounter in an enchanted castle, or even inside a massive cookie jar? No matter how unusual your fantasy, there’s likely a place along a Japanese roadside to fulfill it, as explored in a new book examining the intriguing world of love hotels.

French photographer François Prost embarked on a 3,000km journey of discovery, traveling from Utsunomiya, just north of Tokyo, to Shikoku in the south, capturing the distinctive architecture designed for secret romances. His discoveries include everything from motels adorned with manga, festive romantic retreats, to pastel-colored sets that could belong in a Wes Anderson film, and even some scenes stranger than the most bizarre fantasies one might imagine.

“I find love hotels culturally intriguing,” mentions Prost, whose past work includes capturing the exteriors of strip clubs in the USA and nightclubs in Ivory Coast. “Japan is known for its conservative culture, yet these places offer a retreat into worlds of fantasy and almost naive amazement. And they are found just about everywhere.”

Though estimates vary, some suggest that there might be as many as 37,000 love hotels, or rabu hoteru, across Japan. These establishments are ubiquitous, located in bustling city centers, peaceful rural villages, at major highway intersections, and hidden amidst expansive fields. Prost’s vivid photographs showcase these hotels in all their varied forms and artistic expressions.

Some of these hotels are designed like castles with pink battlements and aqua-blue towers. Others resemble alpine lodges or tiki huts, and many are styled like cruise ships inviting guests on a voyage to a lovers’ paradise. Whether the allure of French châteaux or Arabian onion domes captures your imagination, there’s a love hotel ready to welcome you anonymously, offer a kyukei or “rest,” and allow you to indulge in your deepest desires.

The history of Japanese love hotels dates back to the 1600s, although they began gaining prominence during the Edo period as deai chaya, or lovers’ teahouses. These establishments were designed to look inconspicuous from the outside but featured secret entrances and multiple exits. Importantly, in a culture where shoes are removed indoors, they provided a place to discreetly store footwear, ensuring patrons’ privacy and anonymity.

By the Shōwa era in the early 20th century, these teahouses evolved into colorful, themed locations that provided an escape from daily life. Following Japan’s postwar economic boom, the 1970s and 80s saw the transformation of love hotels into elaborate sexual theme parks, with decorations ranging from fairytale and sci-fi to medieval cosplay.

The dense population, small living spaces, and cultural norms of residing with parents until marriage have all fueled the demand for private spaces like love hotels. Their ongoing popularity is also attributed to the sexual emancipation of women in Japan, with designs that aim to be cute and inviting rather than tacky or distasteful.

Distinct from the seedy pay-by-the-hour motels found elsewhere, Japanese love hotels strive to cater to a broad audience. According to Mark D West’s 2005 book, “Law in Everyday Japan,” it’s estimated that Japanese couples make over half a billion visits to love hotels annually, suggesting that nearly half of all sexual activity in Japan occurs in these distinctive settings. This implies that a significant portion of the population may have been conceived in these quirky, fantasy-like environments.

Prost’s photos do not venture inside the bedrooms—there are other publications for that—but rather focus on the exterior designs of these hotels. These buildings don’t blend into their surroundings; instead, they stand out like vibrant billboards along the roadside, easily spotted by couples seeking privacy and adventure.

The innovative design of love hotels ensures complete discretion; guests can drive directly into a garage, take an elevator up to their room, and leave without ever encountering another person. Many modern love hotels have even eliminated the need for a receptionist, offering room selections via online bookings or automated vending machines.

Despite some establishments showing signs of wear and receiving less than favorable online reviews, Prost asserts that love hotels remain as popular as ever. They continue to evolve to meet modern demands, with many young people now renting rooms for group gatherings, equipped with karaoke setups, large TVs, massage chairs, and hot tubs.

For example, the Bali An chain offers spacious rooms designed for joshi-kai, or girls’ nights out, featuring bars, massive TVs, and beds large enough for eight people. They also include hammocks and camping gear, introducing a glamping theme to the love hotel experience, allowing guests to enjoy the allure of the outdoors from the comfort of their themed room.

• Love Hotel is available now. The Love Hotel exhibition is on display at Galerie du jour Agnès B, Paris, until 18 May.