Organic Farming Decline: Rising Costs and Challenges Curb Expansion

In Skaneateles, New York, Jeremy Brown, a farmer, affectionately touches the nose of a young calf. “I’m particularly fond of the ones with pink noses,” he comments.

The calf, sporting a pink nose, is among the roughly 3,200 cattle housed at Twin Birch Dairy. To Brown, these cows are more than mere farm laborers; they reign supreme in the barn, holding positions of utmost importance.

As a co-owner of Twin Birch, Brown is a vocal advocate for sustainable farming practices. He notes that an average dairy cow can produce up to 265 pounds (120 kilograms) of methane—a significant greenhouse gas—annually. However, Twin Birch Dairy takes several eco-friendly measures to reduce its carbon footprint.

“Ruminants are part of the solution to climate change, not the problem,” Brown asserts.

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EDITOR’S NOTE: This narrative is a joint effort between the Rochester Institute of Technology and The Associated Press.

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Clad in a worn hoodie and a cap bearing a livestock medicine brand, Brown spends a blustery Friday morning performing artificial insemination on the farm’s Jersey and Holstein cows. He maneuvers around an electric manure scraper, a device used to maintain cleanliness in the barn without the need for fuel-powered equipment.

This electric scraper is just one example of the farm’s commitment to sustainability. Twin Birch recycles manure for fertilization, uses a water recycling system to cool milk and provide drinking water for the cattle, and cultivates most of its own animal feed.

Despite these efforts, Brown has opted not to seek organic certification from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. He believes that such certification could increase costs and limit the farm’s use of effective technologies, which in turn could make dairy products less affordable for consumers.

He questions the value of the organic label, echoing concerns held by many in the farming community.

Waning Interest in Organic Certification

Indeed, a growing number of U.S. farmers share this sentiment. Recent years have seen a decline in the acreage certified as organic, despite earlier growth that saw organic farms covering over 5 million acres. These farms represent less than 1% of all U.S. farm land, with organic products comprising a small fraction of national agricultural sales.

Shannon Ratcliff, who runs Shannon Brook Farms in Watkins Glen, New York, attributes this decline to increased regulations and oversight following a scandal in Iowa where a farmer was caught selling non-organic grain as organic. “The whole industry tightened up—more work and higher scrutiny became the new norm,” she explains.

Furthermore, Ratcliff’s business partner, Walter Adam, notes a dwindling interest in farming among younger generations, adding another layer of challenge. “It takes half a year to train someone fully, and it’s hard to find dedicated workers,” he says.

Adam travels to Manhattan weekly to sell their products, and assists Ratcliff at the Brighton Farmers Market in New York on Sundays.

Frank Mitloehner, an animal science professor at the University of California Davis, believes that inflexibility and inefficiency in organic farming, exacerbated by rising operational costs, are pushing farmers away from organic practices. He suggests that without significant changes to organic standards, the label might lose its relevance entirely.

“It’s surprising how long many farmers managed under strict organic conditions,” he remarks. “Now, they seem to be losing their market share during these economically tough times.”

Organic Still Holds Value for Some

Nevertheless, a segment of consumers remains committed to purchasing organic products. Aaron Swindle, a supermarket employee, dedicates every Sunday morning to shopping for organic items at the Brighton Farmers Market.

“There’s a distinct taste quality to locally grown food,” says Swindle, who appreciates the Finger Lakes region’s contribution of dairy, produce, and meat to local markets.

John Bolton, who runs Bolton Farms in Hilton, New York, is pursuing organic certification for his hydroponic operation, which grows vegetables in nutrient-rich water solutions. Despite his reservations about the certification process, he finds it beneficial for both sales and environmental sustainability.

On a cold spring day, Bolton integrates eco-friendly pest control by releasing 1,500 ladybugs to combat aphids, a practice aligned with organic farming standards. “Climate change poses real threats to our operations, but being certified organic not only boosts sales, it also aligns with ethical farming practices,” he explains.

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