Climate Crisis Threatens Coffee: Could This Rare Bean Save Your Morning Brew?

In Nzara County, South Sudan, Catherine Bashiama meticulously inspects the branches of a coffee tree she has nurtured from a sapling, eager to find the initial buds of fruit after three years of cultivation. Her face lights up as she finds the small, nascent coffee cherries.

Previously unfamiliar with coffee cultivation in her village in western South Sudan, Bashiama now pins her hopes on a unique, climate-adaptable coffee variety to lift her family out of poverty. “I want to educate my children so they can lead the future,” says Bashiama, who is a mother to twelve children.

Excelsa coffee, identified over a century ago in South Sudan, has sparked excitement among financially constrained local farmers and attracted global attention due to its resilience to harsh climates. With traditional coffee powerhouses like Brazil experiencing significant crop reductions due to inconsistent and arid conditions, coffee prices have hit record highs, prompting the industry to search for alternatives. Brazilian experts predict a reduction of about 12% in this year’s coffee output.

“Historical patterns indicate that at times, choices are limited, and currently, numerous coffee growers are grappling with the adverse effects of climate change,” remarks Aaron Davis, the head of coffee research at London’s Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Davis and his team have been studying excelsa for nearly a decade, collaborating with growers in several regions, including Uganda.

Excelsa coffee could play a crucial role in climate adaptation. Native to South Sudan and several other African nations such as Congo, Central African Republic, and Uganda, excelsa is also cultivated in countries like India, Indonesia, and Vietnam. The species thrives under extreme conditions like drought and heat, thanks to its deep roots, robust trunks, and thick, leathery leaves. It also has a high resistance to many typical coffee plant diseases and pests.

Despite its advantages, excelsa makes up less than 1% of the global coffee market, trailing far behind the more popular arabica and robusta varieties. Experts believe scaling up excelsa production is necessary to mitigate market shortages caused by climate change. Currently, excelsa coffee is primarily available online.

The Roots of Coffee in South Sudan

Unlike its neighbors Ethiopia or Uganda, South Sudan, rich in oil, has not been historically recognized as a coffee producer. Its colonial British administrators once cultivated robusta and arabica varieties, but prolonged conflicts disrupted this, displacing communities and making agriculture challenging. Coffee cultivation demands regular upkeep like pruning and weeding and takes a minimum of three years to bear fruit.

During a recent visit to Nzara County in the state of Western Equatoria—considered the agricultural hub of the country—local residents shared with Associated Press journalists nostalgic stories of their ancestors growing coffee, though many younger people have not continued the tradition. While many locals recognize excelsa, they often refer to it simply as the big tree, due to its potential to grow up to 15 meters (about 49 feet) tall, although it is often pruned shorter to facilitate harvesting.

Coffee from excelsa beans is known for its sweet flavor, unlike robusta, with hints of chocolate, dark fruits, and hazelnut. It is more akin to arabica but generally less bitter and might appear lighter in body.

“This coffee is still relatively unknown, and we are constantly learning more about its properties and potential,” explains Ian Paterson, managing director of Equatoria Teak, a sustainable agro-forestry company that has operated in the region for over a decade. The company has been conducting trials on excelsa, finding it notably resilient to heat. It has also been working with local communities to revive and expand the coffee industry. Three years ago, it distributed seedlings and provided training to around 1,500 farmers, including Bashiama, allowing them to sell their harvest back for processing and export.

The first harvest this year has been promising, and Paterson anticipates exporting approximately 7 tons to European specialty stores soon. By 2027, he hopes the coffee will generate about $2 million for the local economy, with major buyers like Nespresso showing interest. However, production needs to triple to attract substantial investment from large buyers.

Challenges in Expanding the Coffee Industry Amidst South Sudan’s Turmoil

Expanding the coffee industry in South Sudan faces significant obstacles, particularly due to its geographical and political challenges.

A 30-ton truck loaded with coffee must travel about 1,800 miles (3,000 kilometers) to reach a Kenyan port for shipping. The cost for this journey, particularly through Uganda, can be five times higher than neighboring regions. Additionally, attracting investors is difficult due to ongoing security concerns.

Despite a peace agreement in 2018 that concluded a five-year civil war, sporadic violence persists, especially in Western Equatoria. Tensions escalated further after the recent removal of the state governor, leading to unrest and displacement. During their visit, AP journalists found the main road to Nzara blocked due to gunfire, with many locals fleeing in fear of escalating violence.

The government assures that business operations can continue safely but cautions companies to steer clear of political entanglements. “Businesses should focus solely on their commercial activities without getting involved in politics, as this could lead to chaos,” states Alison Barnaba, the state’s minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Environment.

Plans are in place to restore old coffee plantations and establish an agricultural school, although funding sources remain unclear. The government has struggled financially, failing to pay civil servants for over a year and facing reduced oil revenues due to a critical pipeline rupture.

Additionally, local farmers face challenges such as wildfires during the dry season, which not only threaten their coffee crops but also their other agricultural activities. These fires, often started by hunters or to clear land, can spiral out of control, with little accountability enforced.

Seeing Coffee as a Pathway Out of Poverty

For the people of South Sudan, investing in coffee cultivation represents a potential escape from poverty.

Bashiama began growing coffee after her husband was incapacitated in an accident, hindering their ability to sustain their previous livelihood from maize and groundnuts. Since then, she has struggled to afford education and adequate food for her family.

Another local farmer, 37-year-old Taban John, sees his coffee earnings as a means to improve his family’s mobility and education. He hopes to purchase a bicycle to facilitate the transport of his crops and other goods to the market, as well as to afford school uniforms for his children.

Community leaders emphasize that for coffee to truly benefit the region, a long-term vision and stability are crucial. “Coffee cultivation requires peace and a sustainable approach, which is currently hindered by ongoing conflicts,” says Elia Box, who recently lost half of his coffee crops to fire. He plans to replant, but is disheartened by the continuous lack of security and accountability.

Ultimately, for coffee to become a cornerstone of South Sudan’s economy and a means for its people to rise above poverty, peace and stability are essential.