NY Wine Country Vineyards Embrace Sustainability: Adapting to Climate Change

PENN YAN, N.Y. (AP) — A decade earlier, Scott Osborn would have enthusiastically encouraged those considering starting a vineyard to take the plunge. However, his advice has since changed dramatically.

“You’re crazy,” Osborn now tells those looking to enter the wine industry. He owns Fox Run Vineyards, a vast 50-acre (20-hectare) estate on Seneca Lake, the largest of New York’s Finger Lakes.

The task of cultivating grapes has become increasingly precarious due to the erratic weather brought about by climate change. This has made vineyards like Osborn’s increasingly vulnerable. Additionally, changing public perceptions of wine and looming political challenges add to the industry’s uncertainties.

Despite these hurdles, numerous vineyard operators are adopting eco-friendly practices, aiming to contribute to the fight against global warming while adapting to the evolving climate.

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EDITOR’S NOTE: This narrative is a collaborative effort between the Rochester Institute of Technology and The Associated Press.

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The Finger Lakes region spans a significant portion of western New York and is known for its sparkling, sapphire-blue waters on sunny days. The area is dotted with over 130 wineries, renowned for producing some of the finest white wines in the United States.

At Fox Run, visitors are welcomed to taste various wines and often leave with a bottle or two. Regulars like Michele Magda and her husband frequently travel from Pennsylvania to visit.

“This place is like a small retreat, a brief escape,” she commented.

Traditionally, vine buds burst open in spring, leading to the growth of grapes that vary in color from the deep blues of cabernet franc to the light greens of riesling, the region’s most celebrated variety. However, the shifting climate is causing these events to occur sooner each year, which introduces new risks and uncertainties for vineyard owners. An untimely frost after bud break can destroy a significant portion of the crop.

Paul Brock, a professor of viticulture and wine technology at Finger Lakes Community College, notes that year-round precipitation and warmer nights distinguish the Finger Lakes from its competitors on the West Coast. Adapting to these changes has offered a competitive edge to local wine producers.

Winegrowers around the world are grappling with the challenges posed by increasingly unpredictable weather patterns. In France, similar issues have complicated the efforts of vintners to adapt. Meanwhile, on the West Coast of the U.S., devastating wildfires continue to wreak havoc.

Winegrowers as part of the solution

Many vintners are actively working towards making their operations more sustainable, aiming to address the climate issues caused by the combustion of fossil fuels such as gasoline, coal, and natural gas.

Vineyards can achieve certification through programs like the New York Sustainable Winegrowing initiative. Fox Run, along with more than 50 other vineyards, has earned this certification by enhancing practices to improve soil health and protect the water quality of nearby lakes.

Approaching the vineyard’s ornate metal gate adorned with fox figures, one can see some of Osborn’s sustainability efforts. The most visible of these is the array of hundreds of solar panels that supply 90% of the farm’s electricity. Other measures are less obvious, such as the use of underground fungal networks that help shield crops from drought and disease.

“We all have to contribute,” Osborn stated.

One winegrower’s commitment to sustainability

Suzanne Hunt and her family, who run a seventh-generation vineyard, are dedicating significant resources to sustainability. Hunt Country Vineyards, located along Keuka Lake, has implemented measures such as underground geothermal pipelines for temperature control and extensive composting efforts. Despite their proactive stance, the changing climate has forced them to consider difficult decisions regarding their future.

Severe frosts in recent years have led to devastating losses of crops. Moreover, shifts in consumer preferences, as reported by the Wine Institute, have impacted wine sales. By the end of this year, the vineyard plans to cease wine production and will instead focus on hosting community workshops and selling specific grape varieties.

“The farm and vineyard are a part of who I am,” Hunt expressed, emphasizing her desire to help other agricultural and business ventures adopt sustainable practices. “I will support those whose passion and livelihood revolve around winemaking, while I focus on sustainability.”

Tariffs and shifts in US policy

Vinny Aliperti, owner of Billsboro Winery on Seneca Lake, is also committed to improving the environmental impact of the wine industry. In the past year, he has facilitated the creation of communal wine bottle recycling centers that prevent glass from ending up in landfills and repurpose it as construction material.

However, Aliperti would like to see more local wineries and vineyards join in these sustainability efforts. The future of the wine industry, he believes, hinges on such initiatives, especially given the current presidential administration’s apparent lack of focus on environmental issues.

“Honestly, it’s a bit frightening, and yes, somewhat depressing,” he admitted. “I’m not optimistic about the environmental outlook for the next four years.”

Osborn is preparing for potential policy changes that could affect funding for sustainability projects. Tax credits previously covered about half of the $400,000 upfront cost for his solar panels, supplemented by state and federal grants. Without these incentives, he fears he won’t have sufficient funds to continue his efforts.

Moreover, Fox Run might lose thousands of dollars due to retaliatory tariffs and boycotts from Canadian consumers. In March, Canada imposed tariffs on $30 billion worth of U.S. products, including wine. Osborn worries that increased competition from foreign wines, seeking to compensate for lost sales, could overwhelm the American market. This could pose a significant threat to smaller vineyards in the Finger Lakes region.

Back in the barrel room at Fox Run, Aric Bryant, a loyal customer of ten years, speaks about his strong support for New York wines amidst these challenges.

“I feel a fierce loyalty,” he said. “Whenever I visit local restaurants and they don’t offer Finger Lakes wines, I wonder why they even bother serving wine at all.”

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This story was initially published on April 23, 2025, and was updated on April 28, 2025, to include additional details about the forthcoming closure of Hunt Country Vineyards by the year’s end.